Volcanoes national park is located in Ruhengeri district northern province and is part of the Virunga Mountains, a chain of 8 volcanoes that astraddle the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and DR Congo. The park alone covers 160 sq. km and contains 5 mountains which include Mount Karisimbi, the tallest of all, Mount Bisoke with a crater-filled lake on its summit, Mount Muhabura, Gahinga, and Mount Sabinyo where the three country’s border meet. Volcanoes national park is contiguous with Mgahinga gorilla and Virunga national parks, which form the Greater Virunga Conservation Area. According to the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, the mountain gorilla population in the Virunga area is 604 gorillas of which over 300 individuals are found within Volcanoes national park. There 12 gorilla families habituated for tourism of which 10 are for gorilla trekking and the other for research and conservation. The park is overseen by the Rwanda Development Board (RDB), which has its headquarters in Kigali capital city. The main visitor center is located in Kinigi where all visitors meet for gorilla trekking among other activities like volcano hiking, Dian Fossey Tomb visit and tracking golden monkeys.
Vegetation
Volcanoes national park comprises of a variety of vegetation zones which include mixed forest at 1,600-2,500m, bamboo (2,500-2,800m), hagenia-hypericum (2,800-3,200m), sub-alpine (3,200-3,600m) and alpine which occurs only on Mount Karisimbi above 3,600 m. There are 245 plant species recorded including the giant senecios, giant lobelias, and dendrosenecio adnivalis which are restricted to the sub-alpine and alpine vegetation zones. The sub-alpine is also characterized by ericaceous belt which marks the transition from the bamboo to treeless shrub. Some of the species found there include philippia johnstonii which can grow up to 15 meters tall. Its branches are mostly covered with Usnea sp. lichens species. The floor in the ericaceous zone is dominated by shrub species such as lady’s mantle plant (alchemia) and helichrysum.
The hagenia hypericum woodland zone is characterized by shrubs and tree species including curry bush (hypericum revolutum), a multi-stemmed shrub that grows up to 3 meters high. Among other tree species in this zone include hagenia abyssinica which grows between 5-25 meters tall and forms open canopies.
The mixed forest is characterized by semi-deciduous and tropical evergreen tree species including prunus Africana, an evergreen tree that produces fruits and the gorillas and golden monkeys climb to feed on them during the fruiting season. The tree can grow up 40 meters tall and forms a big canopy where other plants survive including epiphytes, orchids, lichens, fungi, ferns, and mosses. Among the 13 species of orchids found within the park include eulophia horsfallii, disa starsii, chamaengis sarcophylla, stolzia cupuligera, and polystachya kermessia. The tree supports the ecosystem and is being replanted to expand the park. The community is being urged to plant it for agro forestry purposes. Bamboo grows above the montane forest and is dominated by arundinaria alpina, which provides habitat to golden monkeys.
Activities in Volcanoes national park
Gorilla trekking
Rwanda gorilla safaris are based on a high end low impact ecotourism strategy. The number of people visiting gorillas is regulated through maintaining a high gorilla permit fee. The permit cost is $1,500 available for booking through RDB or a tour operator. As such, there’s less negative impact on the gorillas and their natural habitat, making Rwanda one of the best Eco-tourism destinations. The revenue generated helps to support conservation efforts and communities adjacent to the park. For instance, there are over 100 RDB expert gorilla trackers who monitor the well-being of gorilla families on a daily basis. The trackers go into the forest very early in the morning to locate the gorillas and then communicate with the head guide at the breifing center to lead visitors in the right direction. Visitors must report at the RDB Tourism & Conservation offices at Kinigi at 7:00 am to attend the briefing session to get familiar with the gorilla rules including wearing a mask and keeping a distance of 7 meters. Those with symptoms of infectious diseases like influenza and fever will not be allowed to track gorillas. Before setting off for trekking, visitors are advised to have packed lunch, snacks and drinking water. Porters are available for hire given that the trek can last between 1-5 hours and hiking can be challenging due to the nature of terrain.
Private gorilla trekking experience
The luxury Singita Kwitonda Lodge offers a private gorilla experience from their lodge. The private trek cost is $15,000 per person and includes everything from the costs of the gorilla permit, accommodation, and all the hiking gears and clothing. This trek allows visitors to determine the gorilla group they want to visit. Guests remain at the lodge and wait for the RDB rangers and guides to come and conduct the briefing from there. Gorilla trekking is flexible and can begin between 8-10am in the morning. Given that the lodge borders with the park, visitors can walk straight into the forest to search for gorillas.
Dian Fossey Tomb hike
The hike offers an opportunity to learn about Fossey’s life, research, and conservation efforts to protect gorillas in Rwanda. The American primatologist established Karisoke research center in the saddle between Bisoke and Karisimbi volcanoes in 1967 and conducted extensive behavioral research on mountain gorillas and became concerned about the threats facing them particularly poaching and habitat loss. She trained local anti-poaching patrols for active conservation measures, however. Her active stance against poachers led to significant conflict and she was tragically murdered on 26, December 1985, in her cabin. She was buried in the grounds of the Karisoke Research Center next to the graves of her favorite gorillas that were killed by poachers. Fossey’s work had a lasting impact on gorilla conservation across Africa. She brought international attention to the plight of mountain gorillas, which contributed to increased support for their conservation. “Gorillas in the Mist“, a book published in 1983 is both a memoir and a detailed account of her groundbreaking research.
The research center was shifted to new buildings outside the park in order to accommodate the huge scientific research publications and data collected on biodiversity. As one of the world’s largest field studies of primates, the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International program with a team of over 100 expert trackers, rangers, and conservationists’ conducts research as well as educational and community programs across the Virunga area. Karisoke was further shifted to the New Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International in 2022. The campus houses state of the art facilities for upholding scientific research, train conservationists and researchers in Rwanda. Those planning to visit Dian Fossey’s mausoleum should also visit both centers to observe how her more than 55-year legacy has evolved. The old cabins are now covered in vegetation and lies in ruins within the park. The journey to get to the tomb starts at the Kinigi Visitor Center and winds through bamboo and verdant alpine areas, providing a chance to spot the scarlet tufted sunbird.
Golden monkey tracking
Golden monkeys are endemic to the Virunga Massif and Albertine rift valley in Kahuzi Beiga National park, DR Congo. Rwanda’s Volcanoes national park offers a rare opportunity to visit the primates in their natural habitat with two troops each with over 100 individuals habituated. The monkeys dwell in bamboo zone mostly between 2,800 to 3,000 metres with their home range on the slopes of Karisimbi and Sabinyo volcanoes. Tracking golden monkeys can be just as rewarding as trekking with gorillas. Golden monkey tracking permit cost is $100 per person available for booking through a tour operator or RDB and includes 1 hour to spend with the primates.
Attractions around the park
Activities that are done inside the park usually end by noon and those with time can explore the local community for the rest of the day. A cultural tour at the Gorilla Guardian’s village offers an opportunity to learn about Rwandan traditional heritage and also give back to the non-project that supports ex-poachers. The twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo can be visited for boat rides and canoeing. Birding excursions to Rugezi swamp offers an opportunity to spot the Grauer’s swamp warbler among other 43 species of birds including the endangered grey crowned crane.
How to get there
Volcanoes national park is 110 km (2-hour drive) north of Kigali capital city and 64 km (1-hour drive) north east of Gisenyi town on the shores of Lake Kivu. The park can also be reached by 3-4 hour drive from south western Uganda via the Cyanika or Katuna border towns of Rwanda.