Etosha national park is Namibia’s top destination for wildlife viewing with 114 mammal species and 400 birds including 4 of the Big 5 African mammals which include black rhinos, African elephants, lions, and leopards. The protected area’s main physical feature is the Etosah salt pan, a desert like depression that holds water temporarily during the wet season resulting into growth of algea that attracts lesser and greater flamingos, pelicans among other migratory bird species. The pan is surrounded by many waterholes, open grasslands, srub and mopane woodland vegetation. Wildlife spotting in Etosha National Park is relatively easy due to several key factors including natural and artificial waterholes that are scattered across the park, nature of terrain which is mainly of grasslands and savannah, with sparse vegetation and a generally flat terrain, good tourist infrastructure, and effective conservation.
Geology of Etosha salt pan
Etosha national park, situated in Kunene region northern Namibia, covers 22,935 sq. km of which over 4,760 sq. km consists of a salt pan. The pan’s original name was known as Etotha, a dialect of Ovambo people meaning “the place where no plants grow.” The name was in time shortened to Etosha when the European explorers proclaimed it as a protected area in 1907. The pan itself extends for 120-km long occupies over 20% of the park.
According to the Etosha Ecological Institute, the pan was formed after Lake Kunene dried up (similar to Olduvai Gorge Tanzania) due to tectonic forces that altered the course of several rivers including Cunene and Cubango that fed into the Owambo depression during the Pliocene epoch about 2.4 – 10 million years ago. Fossils of aquatic species such as catfish and antelopes such as Sitatunga and lechwe that prefer areas of flood plains close to water bodies were discovered to prove that the pan was indeed a lake.
Once the surface drainage was cut off, wind erosion detached and moved soil particles which deepened the depression. As such, the soil within the lakebed underwent drying and deflation process resulting into mineral-rich saline clay. With the predominant ones being calcium carbonate (calcite) and sodium chloride. The pH of the clay is 8.8-10.2 much higher than those typically found in seawater. Etosha pan almost looks much like a desert and becomes unsuitable for large mammal species except for ostriches which nest in the interior where few predators can reach. However, during the rainy seasonal in November and April, the pan transforms into a shallow lake of up to 1 meter in depth. Water supports growth green algae and microorganisms which attracts large flocks of both greater and lesser flamingos. Among other migratory bird species including pelicans may even breed at the Etosha pan during the wet season.
Flora and fauna
Given that the salt pan is dry and devoid of vegetation for much of the year, acacia savanna grassland vegetation starts to thrive on the edge of the pan. The area is actually a transitional zone where the soil is less saline and receives water from surrounding natural freshwaterholes and springs. Species of grasses like Panicum turgidum and Sporobolus spp., as well as shrubs such as Salsola spp. and Salvadora spp. tolerate the saline soils and sporadic water availability. Camel thorn tree (Vachellia erioloba), Moringa ovalifolia, and Ana trees (Faidherbia albida) are a characteristic species of the Namibian savannah. The waterholes and grasslands support rich biodiversity including 114 mammal species and over 400 birds with 4 of the Big Five mammals which include the Black rhinos, white rhinos, African elephants, lions, and leopards.
The western part of the park is characterized by mopane woodlands. Mopane trees (Colophospermum mopane) are well adapted to the dry conditions and provide important habitat for elephants and other browsers such as black rhinos and giraffes. There are both the southern and Namibian giraffe species.
Dolmite hills
The southwestern area is known for its dolomite hills, which provide a scenic contrast to the flat savannah and salt pans. The hills appear as rugged, rocky outcrops rising from the surrounding plains. Found in this area are various antelope species including oryxes, gemsboks, Kudus, springboks, black-faced impala, and damara dik dik. Which attract predators like lion, cheetahs, and leopards among other smaller ones like the black-backed jackalsbat-eared foxes. A plethora of birds of prey including vultures, secretary birds, pale chanting goshawk, among the red-bellied hornbills, pied crows are often spotted on carcases. Some animals aren’t found in Etosha such as buffalo, African wild dog, and hippo and those intending to see them can visit Kruger national park in South Africa.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Etosha national park is the dry season May to October. Spotting animals becomes much easier due to the fact that the wild animals will naturally come to the various waterholes across the park. This means that visitors need to position themselves on the right place at the right time and also conduct game drives around waterholes.
Waterholes
Etosha boasts several natural waterholes in addition to man-made ones that are owned by private camps and lodges. Each water source offers unique wildlife sightings, so it’s better to know where to go. For instance, the floodlit waterholes offers both day and night game viewing.
The Namutoni area
Namutoni in the eastern part of the protected area is a significant place for wildlife viewing. Formerly a military fort of the German colonial government built in the early 20th century, it was restored into accommodation facilities, restaurant, fuel station, and shops. The place waterholes including Chudop and Klein Namutoni that attract wildlife.
Okaukuejo Rest Camp
Okaukuejo camp is situated inside the park 17 km from the southern entrance gate of Etosha national park. There’s a floodlit waterhole that offers opportunity to see the elusive black rhinos.
Halali Camp
Leopard sightings in Etosha national park are common around Halali camp situated on the eastern edge of the pan. The predator is attracted by the presence of prey such as black-faced impalas. One of the park’s largest floodlit waterholes can be reached by a short nature walk from the camp.
Okondeka waterhole
A natural waterhole located on the western end of the Etosha salt pan, Okondeka is home to lions.
Rietfontein
Rietfontein is a prominent waterhole within the central-southern part of Etosha National Park. Unlike others, the waterhole is famous for attracting a wide variety of wildlife including large herds of elephants, giraffes, zebras, as well as antelopes such as springbok. Predators like lions and cheetahs can also be spotted.
Getting there
The park is 435 km (7-hour drive) north of Windhoek capital city. The road network is good. 4×4 may not be required to get there. The park can also be reached by air through several private airstrips including Ongava, Onguma, and Okaukuejo airports.